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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. But, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.